ABIRAL RAI
IFMGA / UIAGM-Certified Mountain Guide • Adventure Photographer
Nationality: Nepali | Date of Birth: 22/12/1990 | Married
Address: Solukhumbu, Nepal
Phone: +977 9843265344 | Email: abiralthulung@gmail.com
Website: www.abiralrai.com | Languages: Thulung, Nepali, English
Profile
IFMGA/UIAGM, and NNMGA certified mountain guide and adventure photographer based in Nepal, with over 15 years of experience in mountaineering and tourism. Led expeditions to 23 peaks across Nepal, including Everest, Lhotse, and Manaslu. First Everest summiteer from the Thulung Rai community and the first IFMGA-certified guide from the Rai indigenous people of eastern Nepal.
Career Highlights
• Summited Mount Everest three times (2022, 2024, 2026), South Summit ascents in 2023 and 2025.
• Completed the Seven Summits continental high points while guiding clients, including Vinson Massif (Antarctica), Aconcagua (South America), Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania), Mont Blanc & Elbrus (Europe), and Kilimanjaro (Africa).
• First ascent of Kuksay Peak (7,186m), China's Pamir Range, 2024.
• Served as Sherpa Leader for the Nepal Army's Everest & Lhotse Expedition and Government Mountain Clean-Up Campaign, 2022.
• Professional expedition photographer/videographer for National Geographic (“The Last Honey Hunter,” 2017; Mustang Photo Story, 2018), Outside Magazine, and multiple documentary film projects.
Affiliations & Memberships
• Executive Board Member, Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA)
• Executive Board Member, Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association (NMIA)
• General Member, Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and Everest Summiteers Association (ESA)
Major Mountaineering Achievements
Mountain
Altitude
Location
Highlights
Mt. Everest
8,848.86m
Nepal
Summited 2022, 2024, 2026 : South Summit 2023, 2025
Mt. Manaslu
8,163m
Nepal
Summited 2022; winter ascent to Camp II, 2021
Mt. Lhotse
8,516m
Nepal
Up to Collar 8,200m, 2019
Vinson Massif
4,892m
Antarctica
Summit (first from the Rai community)
Aconcagua
6,960m
South America
Summit (first from the Rai community)
Carstensz Pyramid
4,884m
Indonesia
Summit (first from the Rai community)
Mt. Kilimanjaro
5,895m
Africa
Summited, 2026
Mt. Elbrus
5,642m
Russia
Summited, 2026
Kuksay Peak
7,186m
Pamir, China
First ascent, 2024
Lenin Peak
7,134m
Pamir, Kyrgyzstan
Summited 3 times
Also summited: Baruntse (7,129m, 3x), Himlung (7,126m, 4x), Amadablam (6,812m, 5x), Island Peak (6,189m, 36x), Lobuche Peak (6,119m, 30x), Mera Peak (6,454m, 15x), and Chulu Far East, Pisang, Abi, and Pokalde Peaks.
Notable Media & Film Projects
• Photographer/Videographer, Double Amputee Everest Expedition (Hari Budha Magar), 2023
• Safety & Technical Guide, “Hunting Nepal's Mad Honey That Makes You Hallucinate”, Yes Theory Productions, 2022
• Local guide, “The Last Honey Hunter,” National Geographic, 2016
• Guide/Photographer, Mustang Photo Story, National Geographic, 2018
• Photography contribution, Outside Magazine (USA), 2020
Appreciation & Awards
• Official Photographer, Nepal–China Sagarmatha (Mount Everest) Adventure Festival, 2026
• Official Photographer, Babu Chiri Sherpa Open Lead Climbing Competition, 2024
• Recognized for placing Kirat Rai Student Union and Rai community flags atop Everest, 2022
• Sherpa Leader, Nepal Army Everest & Lhotse Expedition and Mountain Clean-Up Campaign, 2022
• NMA Felicitation for Rescue, Search & Recovery – Everest Avalanche Tragedy, 2014
Key Certifications & Training
• Mountain Guide, IFMGA/UIAGM/IVBV – NNMGA/IFMGA, 2019
• Wilderness First (WFR), 2026
• RECCO-SAR Operateur Instructeur, 2025
• National Skill Certification, Mountain Guide Level 4, CTEVT/NSTB, 2022
• Mountaineering Instructor Course (NMIA), 2020
• Advanced Level Ski Training, Switzerland/France, 2022
• Chief Instructor – Ice Climbing Level 1 & Introductory Rock-Climbing Courses, 2017–2025
